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FP Questions http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8058 |
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Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 7:16 am ] |
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After doing several bodying sessions I need to do some leveling. What leveling techniques have worked. I'm trying to ignore what I know about sprayed materials wet sanding techniques that I used inthe past. I'm interested in knowing what grades of paper to use as I progress and technique. The Milburn tutorial really doesn't help much here. TIA |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 8:25 am ] |
Post subject: | |
If you are really out of level then 220,320,400 should work. What I really suggest, if not too un-level is repetitive spiriting-off sessions. This melts the ridges and levels out the amalgamation. If you choose to do this this way straight slightly firm passes. glide on and glide off to avoid sticking. Now for future help if you spirit-off after every session after the second you should be always building a level film. This adds more arm work to an already heave arm work process but it will create a level film as you go. |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 8:40 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I should have also told you to allow the body sessions to cure 1/2 hour before spiriting-off to allow it to harden enoughthat the muneca will not pick up the shellac that much. use very little or no added shellac in the load. 5 to 5 drops of alcohol adn one drop of oil. The oil is only to prevent sticking as you first start and end the stroke. after you get the hang of it you can eliminate the oil during the spiriting-off. |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 9:29 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks, Michael...I was hoping you'd post. My spiriting sessions have been better as I've progressed but I still feel that I need a sanding session if only to observe its effect. I was planning to use something like 800-1000 grit with light circular motions before going on to the next bodying sessions. I was also wondering if olive oil or naphtha would be suitable lubricants with such sanding...or do you recomment doing it dry? I've partially completed the neck and it looks great. I lightly dry sanded the headplate and then resumed the bodying. Now that I'm doing the guitar body, I'd like to smooth things out before I get too much further along with the next bodying sessions. BTW...I've acquired "tennis elbow" already from bodying, stiffing and spiriting so I'm hoping that the sanding session will help to reduce the elbow work |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 9:57 am ] |
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Souns like that waterfall bubinga will be shining in front of our admiring eyes soon JJ, i just can't wait! Like Alain says to me all the time: Come on, string her up already! ![]() ![]() |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 12:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Serge...it's starting to shine up nicely...the neck in particular. I'm struggling with the sides but the back and top are progressing OK. Michael...The leveling required is minor...just micro-ridges from the muneca. I'm going to try a few spiriting sessions as you suggested and then do some glazing sessions with the 1# cut. BTW, I'm using the dewaxed sanding sealer...not flakes. On the sides, the waist in particular is not taking shellac as well as the less curved areas. I'm going to do some selective bodying and let it get caught up with the other areas. This is fun but due to no experience to draw upon...everything is so foreign. Fortunately, I believe my technique has gotten good in that I'm able to perceive the condition of the muneca and when it needs shellac or oil attention. So far I'm able to keep it moving and have had no stalls. |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 2:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
cure for 24 hours light 220 dry, light 320 dry. light 400 dry if you plan to body some more. |
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